TJITSKE HEMKES
COLLOID
A fashionlabel in collaboration with Brecht Duijf.
The startingpoint of the collection ‘Just a little brave, just a little hidden’ which won the ‘Calvijn Classic Award’ was the burka. We disconnected the subject from its political and religious meaning and investigated the visual effect of covering and reveiling the female body. The piece ‘Hair shelter’ covers the hair of the model and visually replaces it with fabric. Now the gown functions as hair covering the body. But also it emphasizes the body by not covering it completely. The skin coloured bodysuit that is worn underneath suggests bareness, yet not to provoke because no private elements are shown. The piece ‘loose skin’ covers all the skin of the body except for the hair. This makes the body one abstract area. Again the body is hidden, but at the same time its reveiled by the transparancy of the fabric.
A fur coat and fur mittens are covered with glass organza in the piece ‘My third hand first and last fur coat’. Fur is a loaded material. Its beauty is in constant friction with its controversy. This is translated into combining materials: the soft surface gets untouchable by a transparant layer of glass organza. The shape of the mittens remind of boxing gloves, symbolising fight. At the other hand the mittens are attached by strings, a way only children wear them, this gives it a more naive feel. The combination glass organza-fur gives an optical effect: the hairs of the fur are flattened, which makes it look like a graphic print that changes when you move.
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In ‘Walk on gold’ High heels are attached to golden discs. The discs lift and present the wearer like standing on a small stage. Because there is a layer of gold between the shoe and the ground the wearer will walk on a golden surface as long as the shoes are worn.
‘Just a little hidden’
A series of wiggs covered with glass-organza. They are developed upon the idea behind the collection 'just a little brave, just a little hidden'. This time the muslim headscarf was the startingpoint. The transparant layer makes the hair untouchable but visible.